5 Famous Pulperias in San Antonio de Areco
Among the many enquiries we receive, the search for gastronomic experiences in destinations close to the city is one of the most repeated. For those who want to find a quiet place to rest from the noise of the city and enjoy authentic regional products, there is nothing better than eating in one of the famous ‘pulperías’ of San Antonio de Areco.
Also, those who want a more complete programme can choose a stay in one of the most beautiful estancias in the area, estancias to spend the day or the weekend near Buenos Aires, or estancias in the city of San Antonio de Areco itself.
Origin and evolution of the pulpería
It was a place where you could buy the typical products of daily life. Food, drinks, medicines, fabrics, among other things. It also functioned as a meeting place, to chat, play dice or cards, and find out the latest news.
There is no consensus as to the origin of the word pulpería. Some people are in favour of the Galician-style octopus that was served in the pulperías and others of the pulp of the fruit that was sold in the place.
What could not be missing in the pulperías of Argentina were the antics and songs of the gauchos and the parishioners having fun and dancing with them.
It is not for nothing that San Antonio de Areco is the cradle of tradition, and as part of this it wants to preserve the traditions of the gauchos in places that are decorated as they were in their origin.
Over time, the pulperías were replaced by general stores and boliches. While the first ones sold all kinds of foodstuffs, hardware, leather, construction tools and even tools for the countryside were added. Almost all of them also had a bar where you could have a drink.
The boliches, on the other hand, fulfilled the entertainment function of the pulperías. Listening to music, dancing and playing bocce on the side of the premises. Of course, drinks were also consumed.
Much later and when the urban areas started to develop, the pulpería became the bar, as it is known today.
Famous Pulperias of San Antonio de Areco
1. Pulpería Lo de Tito
Location: Matheu 411
This pulpería, located a few steps away from the main square of Areco, was recreated in the Magdalena’s family house.
The family itself, helped by nephews and friends, is in charge of the different tasks of the business.
What can you eat at Pulpería Lo de Tito?
Homemade food, especially ‘minutas’. Provoletas, knife-cut meat empanadas and bife de chorizo with fried eggs are the most popular dishes.
2. Pulpería de Bessonart
Location: Don Segundo Sombra and Zapiola
The Boliche de Bessonart is more than 200 years old. It is characterized by the sloping walls, the old plaster and the original ceiling. The two rooms tell stories of the past.
It was the pulpería that Don Segundo Ramírez, the character of the novel by Ricardo Güiraldes, Don Segundo Sombra, used to frequent.
Open Wednesdays to Fridays from 5pm to 2am, Saturdays and Sundays from 11am to 2am. Mondays and Tuesdays closed.
What can you eat at the Pulpería de Bessonart?
Empanadas and picadas are the classic.
3. Historical Bar El Mitre
Location: Mitre and Alsina
The bar is located in one of the most iconic corners of the town, in front of the Ruiz Arellano square and metres away from the San Antonio de Padua church.
The building was built in 1854 as the first hotel in Areco and residence of the first mayor. Pinotea floors, old openings and classic style are its trademark.
Open Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays from 12 to 16 and from 20 to 00.
Fridays and Saturdays from 12 to 16 and from 20 to 2.
Mondays and Tuesdays closed.
What can you eat at the Bar Histórico Mitre?
Exquisite salmon gravlax, barbecued bondiolas and typical dishes such as Neapolitan milanesa. They also have an excellent cocktail bar run by Florencia Hermes.
4. Bar El Tokio
Location: Mitre and Arellano
The Tokio, History and Flavours, started business in 1903. But it was in 1980 when it became a meeting place for locals and visitors alike.
An anecdotal fact is that the only bus stop in San Antonio de Areco was located on the corner of the Tokio, which made it a very busy place.
After 29 years of being closed, it reopened its doors in 2009.
Open every day from 8am to 0am – Closed on Thursdays.
What can you eat at El Tokio Bar?
El Tokio offers a wide range of cuisine: meats, pastas, salads, sandwiches, seafood and pizzas. Homemade ice creams and homemade desserts.
5. El Almacén de Ramos Generales Restaurante
Location: Zapiola 143
The restaurant is located in what used to be the house of José Venancio Castex and Ana Mercado.
This classic pulpería of San Antonio de Areco is decorated with period and gaucho elements, antique furniture and countryside utensils.
The house, built in 1850, used to be the main house of one of the Castex family’s estancias and it was the border of the city, since the countryside began beyond it.
It is open every day. Its opening hours are from 12 to 16 and from 20 to 0.
What can you eat at the Almacén de Ramos Generales?
Here you can eat grill, pasta, winter stews. The homemade chocolate mousse is famous.
Pulpería La Blanqueada National Historic Monument
Location: Camino al Parque, Complejo Parque Criollo and Museo Ricardo Güiraldes.
La Blanqueada is a building that stands on the foundations of an original pulpería and was declared a National Historic Monument in 1999.
It is 150 years old and has an important role in history, since Ricardo Güiraldes uses it in a part of his famous work ‘Don Segundo Sombra’, when its main character meets Fabio Cáceres.
Nowadays, it houses a museum that recreates the atmosphere of the old pulpería with the grille, the counter, the bottles and there is a scene with wax dolls where a group of gauchos play cards, while the pulpero watches them. They are dressed in the typical gaucho costume: colt boots and chiripá and a red handkerchief on their heads.
Did you find this article about the best and most famous pulperías in San Antonio de Areco useful? I look forward to your comments about your experiences in one of them.
